Rainbow sharks are the fish equivalent of clickbait. When you see them in stores they’re colorful, small, cute, and active…. and most beginners can’t resist them. So you grab a 10-gallon tank and load up on neon-colored gravel, guppies, and cory cats.
But rainbow sharks get big. And when they get big, they get mean. Don’t get me wrong, they can be mean at a smaller size too, but less weight to throw around generally means they’ll stick to bullying smaller, easily intimidated fish like guppies and corys.
So, obviously they make terrible community fish, right?
But as long as we’re defining a community as “several different species living together” and not as “whatever you feel like dumping in the tank”, they’re not the worst community fish, either. However, rainbow sharks – like all “sharks” – are territorially aggressive. Particularly aggressive towards other sharks or anything that has a similar look.
At this point, it’s important to note that rainbow sharks – occasionally called ruby sharks or redfin sharks – (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum) are not the same as red-tail sharks (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor), or redfin sharks (Epalzeorhynchos munense) – which are also sometimes called ruby sharks. Which just adds to the confusion, of course.
However, in most cases when someone says “ruby shark” or “redfin shark” they’re referring to rainbow sharks. In any case, we have binomial nomenclature to keep things straight.
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Table of contents
FAQ
Are rainbow sharks aggressive?
Yeah, red-fin sharks are aggressive. But on a scale from cherry shrimp to Dovii? They sit somewhere around a 3.5. Think peaceful cichlid – which can still be “aggressive” by some people’s standards.
Can rainbow sharks live with guppies?
While they’re small and cute and little, rainbows do okay with small livebearers like guppies and platties. Once they get the body mass to start throwing their weight around, you’ll need to reconsider.
I have better long-term tank mate suggestions in the rainbow shark tank mates section.
Can I keep more than one rainbow shark in a tank?
Maybe, but probably not. You’d need a pretty large tank to house at least eight sharks to spread out the aggression. Otherwise, they might harass each other to death. In any case, I don’t advise this route. There are much better and less stressful options for everyone in the tank mates section.
Rainbow Shark Classification
IUCN Status: Least Concern – last assessed 3/28/11
Class: Actinopterygii are ray-finned fishes, which is a subcategory of boney fishes. These fish are characterized by the bony structures that support their webbed fins. This group makes up nearly half of all living vertebrates.
Order: Cypriniformes includes over 400 genera (the plural for genus) and more than 4,200 species of carp, minnow, loaches, and relatives.
Family: Cyprinidae, or collectively called cyprinids or the “carp family,” is composed of egg scattering species that exhibit no parental care.
Genus: Epalzeorhynchos includes only four species; rainbow shark (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum), redtail shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor), redfin shark (Epalzeorhynchos munense), and flying fox (Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus.)
Species: Epalzeorhynchos frenatum
What does Epalzeorhynchos frenatum mean?
The jury’s still out, but Epalzeo- could mean curative, which seems unlikely, or horn, which would refer to their cone-shaped protuberance on their nose. While -rhynchos would mean snout or beak.
Frenatum, on the other hand, likely comes from frenatus, meaning bridled. Likely in reference to the black “bridle” lines from their horn snout beak up to their eyes.
Putting it together gives you “bridled horn snout.” Which is… just odd.
Find Other Fish
Looking for something specific? You can discover other fish with similar characteristics! They open in a new tab so you can keep reading too!
Distribution & Natural Habitat
They’re native to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. In Thailand, it’s found in Mae Klong, Chao Phraya, and Mekong river basins. Laos populations are found in the Mekong drainage – above and below the Khone Phapheng Falls – including the lower Xe Bangfai. Reports of them being found in Cambodia in the lower Mekong may actually be misattributed to E. frenatum, and are thought to actually be E. munense.
In either case, most of these reports are thought to be outdated or attributed to the wrong species, so their true extent in the wild is unknown – but both CARES and IUCN indicate this fish isn’t under any immediate threat in the wild.
Most of the time, rainbow sharks have been observed grazing sandy or rocky substrates in streams and rivers. However, they do move into seasonal floodplains.
Aquarium Care
Difficulty: Intermediate
Size: 6″ (15 cm)
Lifespan: 5 – 8 years
Tank Size: 60 gallons (240 liters)
Diet: Omnivore
Temperature: 68 – 80 F (20 – 26 C)
Rainbow sharks straddle the line between an easy fish and an intermediate fish. At smaller sizes, they’re much easier and more manageable, but once they become larger and more aggressive, you need a bit more experience to determine what’s acceptable aggressive behavior and when you need to intervene.
They also need substantial oxygen and water movement and they don’t handle poor water quality, and the larger they get, the more water quality becomes an issue.
Tank Specs
A 60-gallon is the minimum for one rainbow shark. They’re large, active fish that are capable of swimming surprisingly fast, they’re also highly territorial and get large, so a 90-gallon would be your best bet if you want to keep your rainbow shark with other large tank mates.
They’re also capable jumpers, so you’ll want to make sure their lid is secured. Especially when they get larger because they’re heavy enough to remove the lid without any issues.
Depending on how hot you keep your house, you may be able to get away without a heater, but I would suggest one set to a low temperature even if you keep your house pretty warm just to be safe.
Because you need a large tank, you’re going to want to opt for an in-line heater instead of a submersible heater for efficiency. Most in-line heaters have controller issues, so I highly recommend an external controller with your in-line, but that’s your call.
If you’d like more detailed information or more heaters to look at, you can check my detailed review of the best aquarium heaters, but I included the best picks for you below.
Suggested heaters
Inkbird Wifi C929A
Rating: 4.6 stars
Price: $45
This is one of the few Inkbird products made specifically for aquariums and, as such, it has some cool features. Of course, you have your normal high and low temp alerts, but you also have an alert for the heater run time. It also comes with probes that are – YAY! – made for aquariums and two of them for redundancy. Additionally, it has app notifications and a double relay on a single plug, also for redundancy.
Pros:
- Redundant in the best way
- Specifically made for aquariums
- Two probes/two relays/heater run time alert
Cons:
- Temp reportedly swings 0.7F
ISTA In-Line Heater
Rating: 3.8 stars
Price: $53 – $100 *size dependent
ISTA runs from 150w – 500w, depending on the size and comes in two fitting sizes; 1/2″ and 5/8″. Though the biggest complaint seems to be that the fittings don’t fit as advertised and you may need to troubleshoot the fitting before it matches correctly.
Pros:
- Super stable temps
- Fresh, brackish, and saltwater safe
- No fish burns
Cons:
- Leaking is an issue
- Fitting size is an issue
Hydor In-Line
Rating: 3.8 stars
Price: $55 – $60 *size dependent
The biggest issue with this was it breaking in the “on” position and overheating. This is an easy fix with an external controller, but it’s less than ideal. Additionally, it only comes in 150w+, but it’s one of the cheaper in-line heaters.
Pros:
- No fish burns
- Fresh, brackish, and saltwater safe
Cons:
- Can leak
- Issues with overheating
- Only compatible with sumps & canisters
Stocking
You’ll likely only want one rainbow shark for your tank. If you have an excessively large tank, you might be able to keep large numbers of rainbow sharks together. Some people report it going successfully, but if that’s the route you want to take you’ll need a 200-gallon (or larger) and eight or more rainbow sharks to spread out the aggression.
And don’t expect it to be a nice, peaceful tank. It’s going to be a battleground.
I don’t suggest this method – at all – but if that’s the route you’re determined to take, that’s how you’d need to do it.
Decor
Rainbow sharks do best in densely planted tanks, it helps break up sightlines, define territories, and lessen aggressive behaviors. This is particularly true with much smaller rainbow sharks, but even adult rainbow sharks could benefit from substantial plant coverage if you can.
Driftwood, rock structures, and other places to hide are also helpful for reducing aggressive behaviors.
They’re not picky about substrate, sand, pebbles, gravel, bare bottom, or planted substrates all work fine. Though sand and gravel are the most natural if you’re going for a biotope setup and you’ll see much more natural grazing and browsing behaviors with those two substrates. HTH pool filter sand is my favorite, but I’d buy it in-store if you can so you don’t have to pay for the shipping.
If you’re planning on getting high-maintenance plants, the best planted substrates are included below for you.
Recommended substrates
Fluval Stratum Plant & Shrimp
Rating: 4.5 stars
Price: $42.88 for 17lb
Price per lb: $2.43
The only bad reviews I found on this were against Fluval itself. There were a few people who had opened bags that were taped back up when they purchased this off Amazon from Fluval directly. Buyers from Chewy (linked above) didn’t have that issue. This one seems to be the – almost – undisputed winner among aquarium plant lovers.
CaribSea Eco Complete
Rating: 4.3 stars
Price: $20.99 for 20lb
Price per lb: $1.05
There are plenty – and I do mean plenty – of reports of ammonia spikes killing off shrimp and fish when this stuff is first put in. Given that you’ll need to replace this stuff yearly – or every two years max – this is something that I would stay away from. I’ve heard amazing, glowing reviews of this stuff though despite the mess and the potential spike. I would say just proceed with caution. And maybe keep some Prime handy.
ADA Aquasoil Amazonia Light
Rating: 4.8 stars
Price: $26.99 for 7lb
Price per lb: $3.85
The Amazonia Light is supposedly easier to handle, cleaner, and less prone to ammonia spikes it’s original Amazonia counterpart. But, with all that said, everything I read says it’s just as good as the Fluval Stratum and it comes with a much heftier price tag. If you’re not married to ADA, I would suggest Fluval Stratum over ADA just based on the price.
Best Plants For Rainbow Sharks
Though it’s not particularly hard to find plants that work well in your rainbow shark tank, you’ll want to avoid low-light and floating plants. Mostly for water movement and algae issues, it’d just be easier, but they still wouldn’t be a terrible choice. Additionally, if you want to see their natural behavior, you’ll want to avoid carpeting plants so your shark can pick through the sand and rocks for algae and aufwuchs.
Some plants that would help promote their natural behaviors are;
Java Moss
Java moss is an almost bulletproof plant that requires almost no care. It doesn’t grow nearly as slowly as it’s java fern cousin, and can create lush moss beds that blow and billow in the current. They’re a great option for grazers, fry, or those of you with the blackest of thumbs.
Guppy Grass
Guppy grass is a great floating plant that adds depth, structure, and cover to any tank. It’s a super easy plant to grow and takes up tons of ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites, but – beware – it grows fast and can easily overrun your tank. Overall, it’s an amazing plant to have if water quality is your top concern.
Lemon Bacopa (Bacopa Carolinia)
It’s as bulletproof as Java fern, but grows as fast as hornwort – Bacopa carolinia is truly the best of both worlds if you’re looking for a hardy species you can plant in the substrate. It grows up to 40″ (not a typo) and propagates quickly, which is great for larger tanks that need a ton of cover on the cheap.
Difficulty: Bulletproof
Growth: Fast
Temperature: 64 – 86F (18 – 30C)
Broad Leaf Amazon Sword (Echinodorus bleheri)
Echinodorus bleheri is one of a few species that get the catch-all common name of “Amazon sword.” Like most swords, you’ll need to keep the crown exposed when planting it. It also needs high light and a decent amount of nutrients to grow well.
Vallisneria
Vals come in a ton of varieties, but most of them are about the same to grow. They can grow rapidly, and quickly cover your tank with lush, kelp-like forests for your fish. Some species, however, do grow much shorter than others.
Lighting & Filtration
Lighting isn’t super important for rainbow sharks, but stronger lighting would help algae and aufwuch development, which would give them an opportunity to graze in your tank like they would in the wild. But if your shark seems intimidated by the brighter lighting, you can dampen it a bit with a dimmer or swapping it out for a cheaper light. I have the best adjustable lights listed below for you.
As for filtration, rainbow sharks are intolerant of low oxygen levels and any pollutants like ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, so you’ll likely want a canister filter. You can opt for a HOB, but I don’t suggest it. Most HOBs will struggle to turn over the water at 6x – 8x per hour.
Depending on your tank size, you’ll be looking at a filter in the range of 360GPH or above. If this is too much for your smaller shark, grab an adjustable canister filter and you can slowly up the volume as it grows.
Suggested lighting & filtration
Fluval Plant 3.0 Light
Rating: 4.8 stars
Price: $150 – $210 *size dependent
Par: 45 at 24″
I love this light. It’s expensive, so prepare for a sticker shock, but it’s totally worth every penny of the price tag. It’s a fully customizable, automatic, and adjustable light that I can’t get enough of. Plus, it doesn’t have a remote, it’s controlled by your phone, so it fixes all the issues that the Finnex 24/7 had.
You know, like the remote not working six months after you bought it kind of thing.
Finnex Stingray 2
Rating: 4.8 stars
Price: $35 – $73 *size dependent
Par: 60 at 24″
The second iteration of the stingray is much better than the first – which was still pretty great – and they kept the same super sleek design while pumping up the power. Not to mention it’s super affordable!
Finnex Planted+ 24/7
Rating: 4.7 stars
Price: $67 – $106 *size dependent
Par: 58 at 24″
My one issue – everyone’s issue, really – is that the remote gives out. If you don’t care about being able to control it, it’s a great light. If you’re excited about it being “fully” customizable (it’s not compared to the Fluval 3.0,) then this probably isn’t the light for you.
Fluval 407 Canister Filter
Rating: 4.6 stars
Price: $200
The 407 is the newest iteration from Fluval that replaces the 307 model and fixed a lot of issues that came with it. It’s quieter, lighter, more energy efficient, and has some additional features for media, making it more versatile than the older models.
Aqueon Quietflow Canister Filter
Rating: 4.5 stars
Price: $170
This model is a great starting point for beginners. It doesn’t come with all the bells and whistles that usually confuse first time canister users, while still providing a solid and well-functioning product.
Polar Aurora Free Media Canister Filter
Rating: 4.4 stars
Price: $67
The Polar Aurora is a cheap filter for anyone who’s not sure if they want to drop a ton of cash on a canister. Can’t say I blame you. It also comes with a built-in UV sterilizer, which helps with algae and bacteria, but I’m not sure how effective the sterilizer is since the whole unit is such low wattage and the GPH is pretty high.
If you want to buy it for the sterilizer, I would look at sterilizer units instead.
MarineLand Magniflow Canister Filter
Rating: 4.1 stars
Price: $95
The Magniflow is a good filter. The main issue is that it doesn’t always ship with all the correct parts. Or all the parts at all. Their customer support is good, but the wait can be incredibly frustrating when you were expecting to be able to run it immediately.
It can also leak heavily if overflowed with media.
Water Care
Like any fish that comes from fast-flowing water, rainbow sharks don’t tolerate waste in their water very well. Depending on your tank size, filtration, stocking levels, and the size of your shark, you’ll likely need to do at least 20% weekly water changes. Though 30% would be better if you can.
Because we’re talking about a 60+ gallon tank, you’ll likely want to grab a python to change their water because the bucket method would be unreasonable at those volumes for most people.
You’ll also need your usual dechlorinator, salt, and a few meds on hand in case they get sick. Because these guys don’t have any illnesses that really stand out, I don’t suggest stocking up on anything super-specific. General Cure, Erythromycin, and Ich-X should be a good start to cover most of your bases.
Suggested water care & meds
Dechlorinator
My all time favorite is Prime, but it is on the expensive side. It can be a serious life saver in an emergency situation though, which is why I keep it handy. If you’re not into the price, I also use Stress Coat and API’s Tap Water Condition and they work just as well for most situations. If you have issues with your tap containing ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, I highly suggest Prime.
Aquarium Salt
Rating: 4.9 stars
Price: $3 – $7 *size dependent
I’ve never noticed a major difference between one aquarium salt to another, to be honest, but I use API Aquarium Salt because it’s the most readily available. Aquarium salt is useful for a wide variety of situations and I always suggest you keep this on hand – especially if you’re skeptical of using medications.
API General Cure
Rating: 4.5 stars
Price: $20 for 20 packets
This stuff works great for a wide variety of illnesses you’ll encounter. If you’re going to buy it, you’ll want to buy more than one pack though.
Ich-X
Rating: 4.6 stars
Price: $16
Maracyn-2
Rating: 4.4 stars
Price: $14 for 24 packets
Maracyn-2 is the same thing as API’s Erythromycin. It works just as well as API’s on most fungal and some bacterial infections. This includes things like body fungus, cotton mouth, some cases of bacterial-related dropsy, and fin and body rot – but it works on tons of other oddball illnesses as well.
Feeding Rainbow Sharks
Rainbow sharks aren’t fussy with food. They will appreciate the presence of algae and aufwuchs in the tank – particularly when they’re younger – but as they get older they tend to slow down on their browsing habits. Still, you’ll want to include some greens in their diet.
Repashy soilent green is a good option, but so are omnivore pellets, bloodworms, mysis shrimp, krill, and anything else that will sink to the bottom for them. You’ll want to avoid flakes with these guys – like with most fish – because most of them are terrible and they’re not nutrient-dense enough for it to be worth your money.
They’ll also eat some common veggies like lettuce, cucumbers, zucchini, green beans, and anything you’d likely feed your pleco. Be sure to quickly blanch your veggies first (boil them in hot water for 1 – 3 minutes then dump them in ice water or run them under cold tap water) before you add them.
Again, they’re not picky, but you’ll want to include as many food options as you can afford to give them a nice balanced diet. Three is a great starting point, but more is always better when it comes to an animal’s diet!
Food list
- Bug Bites
- Vibra Bites
- Repashy Spawn & Grow
- Repashy Soilent Green
- Frozen bloodworms
- Frozen or Freeze-Dried Brine Shrimp With Spirulina
- Frozen or Freeze-Dried Mysis Shrimp
- Frozen (or freeze-dried) beef heart
- Frozen (or freeze-dried) copepod
- Freeze-dried tubifex
- Freeze-dried blackworms
- Cucumbers
- Zucchini
- Green beans
- Lettuce
Rainbow Shark Diseases
Rainbow sharks are pretty resilient and there aren’t a ton of diseases that seem to pop up again and again for them. Of course, like any fish, they can get any freshwater disease, but the most common diseases I’ve seen them get are listed below for you:
Bloat
Bloat certainly doesn’t have to be as severe as the picture, but you get the idea. Bloating is an accumulation of gas, fluids, or unpassed food present in the fish. Although I have no proof, I suspect this is why most people search “how to tell if [insert fish species] is pregnant” even if they can’t get pregnant. There is a difference between a bloated fish and a fish that’s eaten too much – the fish that ate too much will act normal whereas the other usually won’t.
Symptoms:
- Your fish’s stomach is distended without raised scales
- Fish may appear to be in some sort of discomfort and avoid swimming or other usual activities
- May not be pooping
Causes:
- Intestinal blockage
- Constipation
- Internal bacterial infection
- Internal growths/tumors
Ich (White Spot Disease)
Ich is caused by a parasite that, to many, looks like tiny white pimples across the fish. It can attach to the mouth, fins, body, and gills. You can usually see fish scraping themselves against objects (likely because parasites are itchy!) before white spots even appear.
Symptoms:
- White spots
- Scratching
- Redness or bloody streaks
Causes:
- Ichthyophthirius multifilis (parasite)
Swim Bladder Disease (SBD)
If your fish is swimming oddly, is having trouble swimming, or seems to be unable to control the direction it’s going in – it likely has a swimbladder issue.
There are numerous reasons why fish develop this (and not all of them are understood) so treating SBD can be hit-or-miss depending on why it got it in the first place.
Symptoms:
- Floating upside down
- Sinking to the bottom of the tank
- Standing on their head
- Inability to keep upright
Causes:
- Bacterial infection
- Cysts
- Fatty liver tissue
- Egg bound (females)
- Parasites
- Diet-related issues
Constipation
Constipation usually clears up on its own, but some remedies include feeding blanched or canned peas to herbivores. For omnivores or carnivores, brine shrimp and daphnia (live, if you can) are usually a quick and painless fix for both of you. Salt baths may also be suggested in severe cases.
Symptoms:
- Stringy, white, and/or clear feces
- Bloating
- Lethargy
Causes:
- Hexamita (HITH)
- Lack of fiber
10 Of The Best Rainbow Shark Tank Mates
You’ll want to add you rainbow shark last. This will prevent them from claiming the entire tank and relentlessly harassing any intruders you decide to add later. You’ll also want to avoid fish that are small, shy, bottom-dwelling, or easily intimidated. Remember these guys get pretty big, so you’ll want to plan your tank with the shark’s end-size in mind, which typically means other large fish or small typically obnoxious fish.
It’s also worth noting that female sharks tend to be much more tolerant of interlopers than males, so you’ll probably have more success with a female than you would a male. And, finally, because sharks need a lot of water movement, you’ll need fish that can handle the current.
So without any further preamble, here are the best rainbow shark tankmates:
Congo Tetra (Phenacogrammus interruptus)
Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia praecox)
Dwarf rainbowfish do best when kept in groups of at least 6, though more is always better. Once they’re fully mature and settled, they develop beautiful colors when given lots of plants and open space to swim.
pH: 6.8 – 7.5
dKH: 5 – 15
Temp: 73 – 82 F (23 – 28 C )
Size: 3.2″ (8 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful and active
Swimming: Top to midwater shoaling
Malabar Danio (Devario aequipinnatus)
One of a handful of species you can find sold under the name “giant danio,” this species’ care is very similar to all the other large danios. They typically come from streams in the wild and need a decent amount of dissolved oxygen and water movement. They’ll also need to be kept in shoals of six or more in a large tank so they have space to swim.
pH: 6.0 – 8.0
dKH: 2 – 15
Temp: 65 – 80 F (18 – 26 C)
Size: 3.2″ (8 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful, active, shoalers
Swimming: Mid to top
Tiger Barb (Puntigrus tetrazona)
Tiger barbs are active, hardy fish that aren’t easily intimidated or pushed around. They do have a reputation for being nippy – and obnoxious – and they need to be kept in groups of eight or more to really reduce those behaviors, but six as a minimum is recommended.
pH: 6.0 – 7.0
dKH: 5 – 12
Temp: 75 – 82 F (24 – 28 C)
Size: 3″ (7 cm)
Temperament: Active shoalers
Swimming: Mid to top
Diamond Tetra (Moenkhausia pittieri)
Diamond tetras make a great addition to most community tanks, but they can be nippy. They’re typically peaceful, active, unfussy, and generally mind their own business. They do best in shoals fo 6 – 8. If there’s more than that, they tend to nip tankmates instead of each other.
pH: 5.5 – 7.0
dKH: 5 – 12
Temp: 75 – 82 F (24 – 28 C)
Size: 2.4″ (6 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful shoalers
Swimming: Mid to top
Buenos Aires Tetra (Hyphessobrycon anisitsi)
Buenos Aires tetras have a reputation for being a bit nippy when kept in smaller numbers. Stocking them somewhere in the 8 or more region usually solves this issue. They’re active, outgoing, and hardy tetras that can handle a wide range of water conditions.
pH: 5.5 – 8.5
dKH: 1 – 20
Temp: 61 – 83 F (16 – 27 C)
Size: 2 – 2.5″ (5 – 6 cm)
Temperament: Active and outgoing
Swimming: Top to midwater shoaling
Bristlenose Plecos (Ancistrus sp.)
Most plecos aren’t suited for the average aquarium, some growing up to two feet long – not the bristlenose pleco. They’ll happily munch on algae, green beans, zucchinis, cucumbers, sinking algae wafers, and of course leftovers and fish poo – although leftovers and poo make for a literally shitty diet.
pH: 6.0 – 7.5
dKH: 6 – 10
Temp: 60 – 80 F (15 – 27 C)
Size: 4 – 5″ (10 – 12 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful, can be territorial
Swimming: Everywhere that has structure
Severum (Heros efasciatus)
Severums do best when kept in groups of 5 – 6 other severums and, with the exception of breeding, they’re peaceful fish. When maintained alone, they can become nasty towards tank mates. They do, however, need a large tank to be housed in groups.
pH: 6.8 – 7.5
dKH: 5 – 15
Temp: 73 – 82 F (23 – 28 C )
Size: 12″ (30 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming: Everywhere, but usually mid to bottom
Orange Head Geophagus (Geophagus sp. ‘orange head’)
A currently undescribed, but already well-loved species of Geophagus, these guys do best in groups of 5 – 6 and are super peaceful as far as geos go. They only get aggressive when spawning and, like all geos, they require sand.
pH: 4.5 – 7.5
dKH: 1 – 10
Temp: 79 – 86 F (26 – 30 C )
Size: 9.8″ (25 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming: Mid to bottom
Bichirs (Polypterus sp.)
Bichirs, affectionately called “pollys,” are thought to be living fossils and some reports indicate they might be a missing link between water-dwelling species and species who eventually migrated onto land – though there’s little evidence to support it.
pH: 6.2 – 7.8 – species dependent
dKH: 5 – 20 – species dependent
Temp: 75 – 82 F (24 – 28 C) – species dependent
Size: 12 – 39″ (30 – 97 cm)
Temperament: Somewhat aggressive towards other fish, aggressive towards own kind
Swimming: Bottom
Breeding Rainbow Sharks
Rainbow sharks haven’t been bred in captivity without the use of hormones and, even then, they’ve only been bred commercially. We don’t know much about their breeding habits, but we do know they’re egg layers that exhibit no paternal care and they reach sexual maturity around 4″.
Males will typically have redder fins than females, but males also exhibit grey lines on their caudal fin. Females don’t have any lines on their caudal fin and they tend to be “chunkier” looking than their male counterparts. But these distinct characteristics don’t usually become apparent until the fish are sexually mature.
In subadults, you can typically see whether they’re male or female by the shape of their anal and dorsal fins. Females tend to have more rounded fins while males have more angular or pointed dorsal and anal fins.
Types Of Red-Fin Sharks
There are a few colors of rainbow sharks available right now, though most of them aren’t natural mutations. It’s also important to note that redtail and ruby sharks (noted at the beginning of the article) are different species, not color mutations.
Normal
Normal-colored rainbow sharks’ fins are all red (all 7 of them) and their body ranges from a deep bluish black when they’re young to a grayish purple color when they’re fully grown.
Albino
Albino rainbow sharks are all white, expect for their fins – which are an orange to reddish color. Some have colorless fins, though this is pretty rare.
GloFish
GloFish rainbow sharks come in four colors, currently. They act just like normal rainbow sharks but they’ve been spliced with marine creature DNA some time back (typically jellyfish, but occasionally some other DNA.)
Further Reading & Resources
VIN – A Multi-Pronged Approach to Streptococcosis in Rainbow Sharks (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum) and Redtail Black Sharks (E. bicolor)