Do you love fish that are as cute as they are quirky? As funny as they are funky? If so, kuhli loaches may be the perfect addition to your aquarium! Unfortunately, these little guys are often taken care of incorrectly.
Most sources suggest you keep at least 3 kuhli loaches, but the truth is you need at least 10. They are ultra-social and love to cuddle, so three just won’t cut it for snuggling.
Additionally, many kuhli loaches sold as Pangio kuhlii are actually an entirely different species – most commonly P. semicincta.
Kuhli loaches (scientifically Pangio kuhlii,) have several relatives in the Pangio family. P. angilaris, P. oblonga, and P. shelfordi. The issue is, most distributors, vendors, and stores label them all as “kuhli loaches.” Eventhough kuhli loaches are obviously the common name for P. kuhli.
So there’s a chance you might’ve been duped by the catch-all common name.
Making matters more confusing for newcomers, “kuhli”, “coolie,” and “cooly” loach all mean the same thing.
Now that we’ve gotten the basic misconceptions out of the way, let’s talk about where most people go wrong, and what makes kuhli loaches so special!
Disclosure: we’re reader-supported! So if you buy a product I recommend, I might make some coffee money at no cost to you.
Table of contents
Table of Contents
FAQ
Are Kuhli loaches good tank cleaners?
While they may help clean up leftover food and algae, they will not do your job for you. Kuhli loaches certainly help keep your tank clean, but they are not nearly as efficient as other species such as plecos or otocinclus catfish. But, regardless, keeping the tank clean is your job, not the fish’s.
What is the difference between a male and female kuhli loach?
Males tend to be slimmer than the females with more pronounced and paddle-shaped pectoral fins. Females tend to be plumper with less color on their pectoral fins.
Are kuhli loaches nocturnal?
Yes. Kuhli loaches are nocturnal, so they will be most active at night. This can make them difficult to spot during the day, but their activity level at night makes up for it! They’re also incredibly active after water changes, so if you’re struggling to spot your kuhlis and need motivation to change the water, there you go!
Distribution & Natural Habitat
Kuhli loaches are found throughout Southeast Asia in countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam. They inhabit slow-moving rivers and streams with plenty of hiding spots among aquatic plants. The water is murky due to the presence of decomposing leaves and other organic matter.
In the hobby, this is called a blackwater habitat.
Because of this, you’ll also want to keep the tank on the darker side, you can do this by stuffing the tank with plants, adding leaf litter, or buying dimmable lights. Obviously, I’d suggest all three – but work with what’s most appealing to you and your budget!
Aquarium Care
Difficulty: Beginner
Size: 3″ (8 cm)
Lifespan: 10 years
Tank Size: 20 gallons (80 liters)
Diet: Omnivore – primarily carnivore
Temperature: 70 – 81 F (21 – 26 C)
You’ll need (not want) a tank that has already been through the cycling process for these guys. They are hardy…ish fish, but they are highly susceptible to ammonia burn since they have no scales.
The cycling process will also give your plants time to develop a more robust root structure, which is important since kuhli loaches bury themselves in the sand and could dislodge new plants.
Tank Specs
A 20-gallon tank is ideal, a 20-long is even better. Even though you likely don’t see your kuhlis as super active creatures, they are at night and will get up to some wild antics. They are also great jumpers, so a secure lid is a must. As I said, these antics can get wild – but they don’t need to be fatal.
There’s a chance, especially if you’re not breeding, that you won’t need a heater for kuhli loaches. As long as your house stays around 75F or 22C year-round. If you plan on housing them somewhere that might get a bit drafty, however, you’ll definitely want to opt for a heater. Since they’re not super rowdy, you won’t need to worry about an in-line heater, a simple submersible will suffice.
If you’d like more detailed information or more heaters to look at, you can check my detailed review of the best aquarium heaters.
Suggested heaters & tank kits
Aqueon Pro
Rating: 4 stars
Price: $22 – $31 *size dependent
Since they changed to a new manufacturer, these heaters can be hit or miss – but Chewy seems to have a better track record than Amazon. My heaters from 2014 are still going strong, but even the new heaters come with a lifetime warranty.
Pros:
- 68 F – 88 F
- Lifetime warranty
- Not glass
- Shatter-resistant
Cons:
- Needs calibrating out of the box
- Dial can be fiddly
- Bulky for smaller tanks
Hygger Titanium
Rating: 4.5 stars
Price: $50 – $93 *size dependent
This heater comes with an external controller, a wide range of temps, is shatterproof, and has great reviews. I didn’t give it the top spot because is there’s no ability to hook it up to another controller for redundancy – making failures in the unit’s controller catastrophic -, the warranty is too short for me, and there’s no way to recalibrate it.
Pros:
- 32 F – 104 F
- External controls
- Shatterproof
Cons:
- No redundancy option
- No recalibration option
- Only 1-year warranty
Cobalt Neo-Therm
Rating: 3.9 stars
Price: $56 – $106 *size dependent
Cobalt Neo Therms are some of the most reliable heaters on the market. There does seem to be some issues with certain wattages, however, and overheating seems to be a consistent issue for those models (150w & 200w being the most common.)
Pros:
- 66 F – 96 F
- 0.5-degree accuracy
- Super sleek
- Shatter-resistant
Cons:
- Overheating issue
- Only a 3-year warranty
- Expensive
Inkbird Wifi C929A
Rating: 4.6 stars
Price: $45
This is one of the few Inkbird products made specifically for aquariums and, as such, it has some cool features. Of course, you have your normal high and low temp alerts, but you also have an alert for the heater run time. It also comes with probes that are – YAY! – made for aquariums and two of them for redundancy. Additionally, it has app notifications and a double relay on a single plug, also for redundancy.
Pros:
- Redundant in the best way
- Specifically made for aquariums
- Two probes/two relays/heater run time alert
Cons:
- Temp reportedly swings 0.7F
Stocking
As I mentioned before, kuhli loaches are social fish that need to be kept in groups of at least ten. If you have fewer than ten, they will likely be stressed and hide all day. Not only does this mean you won’t get to see their cute little faces, but it can also lead to health problems. So do yourself (and your kuhlis) a favor and get a group of at least ten.
These fish are peaceful and don’t tend to bother their tank mates (which is good news if you’re keeping them with other sensitive species). In fact, they often welcome attention, which makes them perfect community tank members.
Decor
You’ll want to use softer, finer-grained sand for your kuhli loach tank. Coarser sands can damage their barbels, which they use to help find food. HTH pool filter sand works the best for me and is ridiculously cheap.
Again, you’ll want to keep the tank darker. You can do this by stuffing the tank with plants, adding a blackwater additive like Brightwell Blackwater, or adding leaf litter. If you’re a long-time reader of the site, you probably know I’m going to suggest Tannin Aquatics for any sort of botanicals you buy. (And, no, I’m not affiliated with them, I just use them personally because their range is drool-worthy.)
Kuhli loaches also love to hide, so be sure to give them plenty of places to do so. Paradoxically, the more spaces they have to hide, the more likely you are to see them. Lots of hiding spaces will assure them that, if needed, there’s a convenient place to get away so they’ll be more likely to explore.
Driftwood, rocks, and caves all make great additions to a kuhli loach tank. But keep in mind that they scoot under things, so make sure any rocks or decorations you add are securely placed. You don’t want anything toppling over and crushing your little kuhli colony!
Best Plants For Kuhli Loach
As I mentioned before, kuhli loaches love to hide, aren’t the biggest fans of overhead lighting, and need sand as a substrate. Obviously, none of this is super conducive to growing plants. So you’ll want to use plants that can create a dense environment but are hardy enough to still grow rapidly in those conditions. Some great options are:
Vallisneria
Vals come in a ton of varieties, but most of them are about the same to grow. They can grow rapidly, and quickly cover your tank with lush, kelp-like forests for your fish. Some species, however, do grow much shorter than others.
Cabomba sp.
There are several species of cabomba, the green is the easiest. It’s difficult to get in certain states because in some places it’s considered invasive. Somewhat ironically, we seem to struggle growing it in aquariums. If you can get your lighting high enough, it’s worth it.
Water Wisteria
Water wisteria is a fast-growing plant good for keeping ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites under control. It’s great for providing shelter for scared fish and fry, keeping cyanobacteria (aka blue-green algae) at bay, and has anti-microbial properties.
Pennywort sp.
There are quite a few species of pennywort, but most have similar care requirements and grow quickly. Because they can be grown in or out of the water, in a variety of ways, and in a wide range of conditions, this makes them a super adaptable aquarium plant. They also make exceptional plants for summer tubs!
Salvinia
Salvinia is a fast-growing plant good for keeping ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites under control. It’s great for providing shelter for scared fish and fry, keeping the lighting intensity down. and making skittish fish feel more secure.
Java Moss
Java moss is an almost bulletproof plant that requires almost no care. It doesn’t grow nearly as slowly as it’s java fern cousin, and can create lush moss beds that blow and billow in the current. They’re a great option for grazers, fry, or those of you with the blackest of thumbs.
Anubias (Anubias barteri)
The anubias barteri species has over 13 variants that call it home – so if you think you’ve seen them all, your probably wrong. They range in size, color, and shape, and are nearly guaranteed to be bulletproof. They don’t experience melt as often as most other immerse-grown aquarium plants and do well in low-tech setups – even with plant-munching fish.
Bacopa sp.
Bacopa comes in a variety of species and variants – some more demanding than others – but the least demanding is Bacopa carolinia. It is banned in a few states because of its invasive species status, but it makes a wonderful addition to most aquariums if you can get it.
Guppy Grass
Guppy grass is a great floating plant that adds depth, structure, and cover to any tank. It’s a super easy plant to grow and takes up tons of ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites, but – beware – it grows fast and can easily overrun your tank. Overall, it’s an amazing plant to have if water quality is your top concern.
Of course, this isn’t a complete list. But it should be enough to get you going! If none of those fit your vibe, look for plants that can handle growing in sand, have low nutrient requirements, and do well in low-light situations.
Lighting & Filtration
Kuhli loaches need lower levels of light, so the type of light doesn’t matter. But dimable lights are a great option if you can afford to spend more money.
As for filtration, you’ll also want to make sure your filter has a gentle flow. Kuhlis are delicate fish and can easily be swept away by a strong current. A good rule of thumb is to aim for about turnover rate of four to six times per hour.
While kuhli loaches can handle the lower outputs of a canister filter, sponge filters of HMFs are a better way to go. A.) they’re cheaper than canister filters and b.) you won’t risk overdoing the current. But, as I said, a filter is a must with these guys. If you’re going to opt for a sponge or HM filter, you’ll also need an air pump to go with it.
While these guys can breathe atmospheric air like gouramis and betta species, they’ll appreciate disolved oxygen as well.
Suggested lighting & filtration
Fluval Plant 3.0 Light
Rating: 4.8 stars
Price: $150 – $210 *size dependent
Par: 45 at 24″
I love this light. It’s expensive, so prepare for a sticker shock, but it’s totally worth every penny of the price tag. It’s a fully customizable, automatic, and adjustable light that I can’t get enough of. Plus, it doesn’t have a remote, it’s controlled by your phone, so it fixes all the issues that the Finnex 24/7 had.
You know, like the remote not working six months after you bought it kind of thing.
Finnex Stingray 2
Rating: 4.8 stars
Price: $35 – $73 *size dependent
Par: 60 at 24″
The second iteration of the stingray is much better than the first – which was still pretty great – and they kept the same super sleek design while pumping up the power. Not to mention it’s super affordable!
Finnex Planted+ 24/7
Rating: 4.7 stars
Price: $67 – $106 *size dependent
Par: 58 at 24″
My one issue – everyone’s issue, really – is that the remote gives out. If you don’t care about being able to control it, it’s a great light. If you’re excited about it being “fully” customizable (it’s not compared to the Fluval 3.0,) then this probably isn’t the light for you.
Hikari sponge filter
Rating: 4.8 stars
Price: $7 – $12 *size dependent
Theses things have been around forever, and it’s because people love them. Most of the people who leave bad reviews on them are upset that they didn’t know they needed an air pump or hose and the directions suck – because there are none – which is fair enough.
Otherwise, I’ve heard complaints about these filters very rarely.
These Filters
Rating: 4.4 stars
Price: $5 – $7
I want to give you a name for these, really, I do. But the problem is that they change the name of these things every few weeks – which is insane and annoying.
Nonetheless, these name-swapping off-brand filters are super cheap and work amazingly.
Ziss Bubble Filter
Rating: 4.8 stars
Price: $25
Though not a sponge filter, this is a great filter that works well for tanks that need low flow. Cleaning them is slightly more involved, but they do make less of a mess coming out of the tank than normal sponge filters. They are, like HMFs, hard to find in the states and I’m not sure how long they’ll be at the place linked. (Great place to buy plants, by the way.)
Tetra Whisper Air Pump
Rating: 4.4 stars
Price: $5 – $24 *size dependent
These air pumps are super quiet and last forever – plus the price isn’t bad. I will say I haven’t been able to find them this cheap in person though.
Water Care
Kuhli loaches don’t have scales. This makes them susceptible to ammonia burns, so it’s important to do weekly water changes. 25% water changes are suggested, but 10% every few days is even better. Stability is the best bet with these guys.
Kuhli loaches love water changes and you’ll see them become incredibly active after each water change. So if you’re struggling to enjoy your nocturnal noodles, give them a water change during the day and watch the tank spring to life!
These are pretty low-maintenance fish, but if you want to go the extra mile, they will always welcome blackwater extract, botanicals, and other reminders of their home in the wild.
If you don’t want to go hard into the hobby, there are some basic meds and water care items every keeper should have on hand. General antibiotics, ammonia binders, aquarium salt, etc. just in case things get a bit hairy. I put together a handy shopping list for you in case you’re maybe less than prepared.
Suggested water care & meds
Dechlorinator
My all time favorite is Prime, but it is on the expensive side. It can be a serious life saver in an emergency situation though, which is why I keep it handy. If you’re not into the price, I also use Stress Coat and API’s Tap Water Condition and they work just as well for most situations. If you have issues with your tap containing ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, I highly suggest Prime.
Aquarium Salt
Rating: 4.9 stars
Price: $3 – $7 *size dependent
I’ve never noticed a major difference between one aquarium salt to another, to be honest, but I use API Aquarium Salt because it’s the most readily available. Aquarium salt is useful for a wide variety of situations and I always suggest you keep this on hand – especially if you’re skeptical of using medications.
API General Cure
Rating: 4.5 stars
Price: $20 for 20 packets
This stuff works great for a wide variety of illnesses you’ll encounter. If you’re going to buy it, you’ll want to buy more than one pack though.
Ich-X
Rating: 4.6 stars
Price: $16
Maracyn-2
Rating: 4.4 stars
Price: $14 for 24 packets
Maracyn-2 is the same thing as API’s Erythromycin. It works just as well as API’s on most fungal and some bacterial infections. This includes things like body fungus, cotton mouth, some cases of bacterial-related dropsy, and fin and body rot – but it works on tons of other oddball illnesses as well.
Potassium Salt (PP)
Rating: 4.4 stars
Price: $5 – $24 *size dependent
This stuff is a little hard to find and, I’ll be honest, I’ve never used it. Which I find to be fortunate because this stuff sounds like it’s no joke. Here’s what I found on Ultraclear’s website: “… effective against external fish infections from fungi, bacteria & parasites, Trichodinia, Costia, Chilodonella & Flukes. It is also an effective solution for improving water quality & clarity by clearing cloudy water of organics. The Potassium Permanganate Solution is a strong oxidizer.”
Feeding Kuhli Loach
Kuhli loaches are omnivores, so they’ll eat a little bit of everything. In the wild, they feed on small invertebrates, detritus, and algae. In captivity, they’ll accept most sinking pellets and frozen foods.
My personal favorite pellets to feed kuhlis are New Life Spectrum. They have a small pellet size that kuhlis can easily eat, and they’re packed with nutrients. I’ve also had great success feeding kuhlis frozen foods like brine shrimp, daphnia, and mysis shrimp. But they’ll relish the live versions of these as well!
As for how much to feed them, a good rule of thumb is to give them as much as they can eat in two minutes, two to three times per day. This might seem like a lot, but kuhlis are very active little fish and they burn through a lot of energy.
If you’re worried about overfeeding, consider using e an automated feeder if you feed pellets and find yourself struggling with the routine.
Kuhli Loach Diseases
While kuhli loaches are relatively hardy fish, they’re not immune to disease. The biggest disease concern with kuhli loaches is bacteria infection. This can happen when kuhlis are stressed, which is often a result of poor water quality. The best way to prevent this is to do regular water changes and make sure your filter is properly maintained.
But there are others as well.
Ammonia Burn
Ammonia burn is a result of too much ammonia being present in the water. This is, most commonly, seen as a result of shipping or new fishkeepers not knowing they need to cycle their tank. Much like with humans, fish can be burned by this chemical.
Symptoms:
- Gasping at the surface
- Lying at the bottom of the tank
- Thick slime production
- Changes in gill/skin color (red or black)
Causes:
- Ammonia
Bacterial Infection
Bacterial infection is a broad term, the bacteria family can cause a wide range of symptoms and come from varying causes. Generally, you can treat them with a broad spectrum antibacterial regardless of the particular bacteria at hand. It’s diagnosing that’s usually the hard part.
Making matters even more difficult, fish can have an internal or external bacterial infection.
Symptoms:
- Red streaks
- Red ulcers
- Fuzzy growths
- Pop eye
- Bloating
Causes:
- Poor water quality
- Food that’s gone bad
- Keeping fish in inappropriate water parameters
- Stress
Hemorrhagic Septicemia
Is a serious, highly contagious, and usually, fatal disease in fish caused by viral hemorrhagic septicemia virus (VHSV). It causes internal bleeding of the muscles and organs that, once bad enough, can be seen externally.
Symptoms:
- Red, bloody-looking streaks
- Bloody-looking patches
- Gasping at the surface
Causes:
- Viral hemorrhagic septicaemia virus (VHSV)
Ich (White Spot Disease)
Ich is caused by a parasite that, to many, looks like tiny white pimples across the fish. It can attach to the mouth, fins, body, and gills. You can usually see fish scraping themselves against objects (likely because parasites are itchy!) before white spots even appear.
Symptoms:
- White spots
- Scratching
- Redness or bloody streaks
Causes:
- Ichthyophthirius multifilis (parasite)
Velvet (Gold Dust Disease)
For whatever reason, bettas are particularly prone to velvet, but any tropical fish can get it. Velvet is caused by a surprisingly attractive-looking parasite that can easily go unnoticed until the fish dies from them.
Symptoms, not unlike ich, include itchiness, lethargy, rapid breathing, clamped fins, and obviously a gold dusting. Treating velvet can be done the same way that you’d treat ich.
Symptoms:
- Brownish/gold discoloration
- Scratching
- Clamped fins
- Skin peeling off
- Labored breathing
Causes:
- Oödinium pilularis (parasite)
Bloat
Bloat certainly doesn’t have to be as severe as the picture, but you get the idea. Bloating is an accumulation of gas, fluids, or unpassed food present in the fish. Although I have no proof, I suspect this is why most people search “how to tell if [insert fish species] is pregnant” even if they can’t get pregnant. There is a difference between a bloated fish and a fish that’s eaten too much – the fish that ate too much will act normal whereas the other usually won’t.
Symptoms:
- Your fish’s stomach is distended without raised scales
- Fish may appear to be in some sort of discomfort and avoid swimming or other usual activities
- May not be pooping
Causes:
- Intestinal blockage
- Constipation
- Internal bacterial infection
- Internal growths/tumors
Fungal Infection
Fungal infections are a tricky bunch – not only do they have a huge family that presents a wide variety of species and symptoms – but some bacterial infections look strikingly similar to a fungus.
If you’re not sure if you’re dealing with a fungus or a bacterial infection, I find it helpful to treat with Ich X and Erythromycin (provided it’s 100% erythromycin) at the same time to be sure I’m treating for both.
Symptoms:
- Cottony growths on body, fins, eyes, and/or gills
Causes:
- Prior untreated injury
- Stress
- Water quality-related issues
- Prior untreated infection (bacterial, parasitic, etc.)
Kuhli Loach Tank Mates
One of the best things about kuhli loaches is that they can be kept with a wide variety of tank mates. But there are a few things to keep in mind when choosing tank mates for kuhlis.
First, they’re active mostly at night. Which means you’ll want to look at fish that aren’t going to be easily stressed by their sleep cycle being interrupted. Second, kuhlis want to occupy the lower levels of your tank. Not that kuhlis mind an intrusion or two, but if you’re eyeing bottom-dwelling fish that are territorial, they wouldn’t be compatible.
With that in mind, some good tank mates for kuhlis are:
Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae)
Ember tetras are bright, fun, tiny, shoaling fish that occur in South American black waters. They’re hardy, peaceful fish that are often described as active, bold, and playful. They also enjoy a planted tank, but be mindful that they do like to swim in open space, so be sure to include that in your layout. They enjoy their numbers a little higher than most shoaling species, 8 is recommended.
Rummy-Nose Tetra (Hemigrammus rhodostomus)
Rummies do best in shoals of eight or more, with ten or more being better. They don’t compete well with boisterous or food aggressive tankmates, but they’re a great community fish for a peaceful, well-planned tank.
pH: 5.5 – 7.0
dKH: 2 – 15
Temp: 76 – 80 F (24 – 27 C)
Size: 2″ (5 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful and active
Swimming: Top to midwater shoaling
White Clouds (Tanichthys albonubes)
These fish are best kept in groups of eight or more, though 10 is better. There’s little information of just how far spread these fish are, but they’ve been observed slow-moving white and blackwater streams in and around China.
pH: 6.0 – 7.0
dKH: 5 – 20
Temp: 60 – 72F (15 – 22C)
Size: 1.5 – 2″ (3 – 5 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful shoaling fish
Swimming: Mid to top
Clown Killi (Epiplatys annulatus)
Clown killis, also called rocket killis, are a beautifully colored little fish that come from slow-moving waterways in southern Guinea. They’re usually quite outgoing, but make sure you buy at least eight of them so they can display their social behavior. 10 is even better.
pH: 4.0 – 7.0
dKH: 1 – 8
Temp: 68 – 79F (20 – 26C)
Size: 1.3″ (3 cm)
Temperament: Usually peaceful and active
Swimming: Mid to top
Norman’s Lampeye Killifish (Poropanchax normani)
Norami killis, or Norman’s lampeye killifish, are non anual killifish (meaning they won’t die in a year) from Central and West Africa. It’s best to get these guys in schools of nine or more to see them at their best. Their blue “eye” nearly glows in the dark and is spectacular to see in person!
pH: 6.0 – 7.0
dKH: 4 – 15
Temp: 73° – 78° F (23° – 26° C)
Size: 1.6″ (4 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful, generally active
Swimming: Mid to top
Guppies (Poecilia reticulata)
Guppies, despite commonly-held opinion, can be quite fragile when settling. They’re prone to spinal issues and often will miscarry even under ideal circumstances. Many newcomers often report their guppies die within the first week they bring them home. With that said, they’re beautiful, colorful, fun and rewarding fish once they get settled in your tank!
pH: 7.0 – 8.5
dKH: 8 – 30
Temp: 76 – 82F (24 – 27C)
Size: 2.5″ (6 cm)
Temperament: Most are nippy
Swimming: Everywhere they can
Corydoras (Corydora sp.)
Corydoras are a shoaling species rarely kept appropriately. Some species can be seen in shoals numbering in the thousands in the wild! While this isn’t easily replicated in the home aquaria, most species are happy in groups of six or more like-minded cats to partrol the sand beds with.
Corydoras hasbrosus would be a particularly adorable addition – although almost any corydora would do well, similarly agreeable in size would be pygmaeus, hastatus, or panda.
pH: 5.5 – 7.0 – species dependent
dKH: 3 – 10
Temp: 72 – 80 F (22 – 26 C) – species dependent
Size: 1 – 3.5″ (2.5 – 9 cm) – species dependent
Temperament: Peaceful, can be boisterous for less active species
Swimming: Bottom (except hastatus) in a shoal of 6 or more
Emperor Tetra (Nematobrycon palmeri)
Emperor tetras are one of the best community tetras you can find. They’re hardy, easily adaptable, peaceful, and large enough to not be easily startled. They’re best kept in shoals of 6 or more, with 10 or more being better.
pH: 5.0 – 7.5
dKH: 1 – 12
Temp: 74 – 81 F (23 – 27 C)
Size: 2″ (5 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful and active
Swimming: Top to midwater shoaling
Boesemani Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia boesemani)
Boesemani rainbowfish are relatively large and pretty fast, they’re always hustling and bustling about. This makes them ideal for color and movement but makes them less than ideal for smaller, easily spooked species that want a quieter tank. They need to be kept in shoals of 8 or more.
pH: 7.0 – 8.0
dKH: 10 – 20
Temp: 81 – 86 F (27 – 30 C)
Size: 4.4″ (11 cm)
Temperament: Peaceful and active
Swimming: Top to midwater shoaling
Paradise Fish (Macropodus opercularis)
Paradise fish, unlike most other gouramis, do best alone or in pairs. If you want to keep them in a group, and an all-female group of six or more would be your best bet. They tend to only be aggressive with each other, other anabantoid species, or towards much smaller tank mates.
pH: 6.0 – 8.0
dKH: 5 – 20
Temp: 72 – 80 F (22 – 27 C)
Size: 3.9″ (10 cm)
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Swimming: Everywhere
Congo Tetra (Phenacogrammus interruptus)
Wild populations are endemic to the Congo River in Africa, but thankfully, we have plenty of captive-bred fish on the market. They do best in groups of at least six.
pH: 6.0 – 7.5
dKH: 3 – 18
Temp: 73 – 82 F (23 – 28 C)
Size: 3.2″ (8 cm) max
Temperament: Peaceful shoaler
Swimming: Mid to top
Nerite Snails (Neritina natalensis)
The most common complaint about snails is that they can reproduce like crazy, this is especially true for tanks with tons of leftovers! Nerite snails, however, can’t reproduce in freshwater so this isn’t a concern for the average aquarium. A simple remedy to keeping shrimp in soft water or water with little calcium is to add Tums to the tank for them to munch on to get their calcium fill.
pH: 7.0 – 8.9
dKH: 6 – 12
Temp: 70 – 80 F (21 – 27 C)
Size: 1″ (2 cm) although somewhat species dependent
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming: Everywhere there’s food
Amano Shrimp (Caridina Multidentata)
Most amano shrimp are wild-caught, so you’ll want to make sure you quarantine them properly before adding them to your tank, but they make peaceful and entertaining algae control crew. They’ll be at their best if they’re kept in groups of six or more.
pH: 6.5 – 7.9
dKH: 1 – 6
Temp: 65 – 76 F (18 – 24 C)
Size: 3″+ (7.5+ cm)
Temperament: Peaceful and active
Swimming: Bottom & structured surfaces
Of course, this isn’t a complete list because kuhlis are pretty amicable! But if nothing in here strikes your fancy, your best bets would be peaceful, hardy, shoaling fish that can’t be swallowed whole, like corydoras, tetras, killifish, or rainbow fish.
Breeding Kuhli Loach
I’ve seen articles detailing how to breed kuhli loaches, but I’ve seen very few documented spawns in captivity. And most of them were reportedly by accident. By all accounts, caring for your kuhlis correctly should trigger them to spawn.
Most sources cite blackwater, higher temperatures, ample sized groups, and small water changes daily to trigger spawning. But, again, very few first-hand reports of intentional spawning have occured in captivity.
Types Of Kuhli Loaches
They’re not different types of “kuhlis” because, as we discussed, kuhli is the species, Pangio is the family. But if you’ve been particularly observant, you may have noticed some images of kuhlis that don’t look like the others in this article.
And that’s because they’re not! So let’s dive into the Pangio family.
Pangio Kuhli
You can see the striping here is more like blotches than stripes and they don’t continue all the way down to their stomach. They are rarely mislabled as semicincta, but semicincta are often mislabeled as kuhli.
Pangio Semicincta
Although their pattern varies based on their age, size, and numerous other factors, semicincta tend to have more striping than kuhli loaches. Often reaching all the way to their stomach when young, and becoming more segmented and blobish with age.
Pangio Shelfordi
Shelfordi have pretty distinctive patterns ranging from leopard-like rosettes to lines and dashes. They’re rarely mislabeled as a kuhli, but ocassionally mislabeled as a “borneo loach,” which is the ccommon name for hillstream loaches.
Pangio Anguillaris
Anguillaris are even harder to mislabel due to their unique blue-grey coloring. They occasionally will have black markings on their lateral line, but most often don’t. They remind me of a cross between a dojo loach and a dragon goby.
Pangio Oblonga
P. Oblonga is also called a “black kuhli loach,” which is a bit of a misnomer, since they’re not kuhlis, they’re oblongas. But they’re rarely entirely mislabeled as kuhlis.